It is an emotional experience to finally taste this year’s outright winner, with warm thanks to Sébastien Tournant Lemaire for sending me a bottle, a real fillip as we pass through lockdown.

First, a little background. The history of the Roger-Constant Lemaire dates back to the late 19th century in the village of Hautvillers, the cradle of Champagne, where a family tradition was founded. A gardener and poet, Désiré bought the first pieces of land that made up the House’s vineyard. Désiré’s grandson Roger-Constant in 1945 doubled the size of the premier cru vineyard in Hautvillers based on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, then moved the family heartland to Villers-sous- Châtillon with further vines planted to the best Meunier, for which this Marne Valley location is highly regarded.

The Lemaire family has continued to build on the savour-faire of its ancestors in producing a typical Champagne: the house does not practise malo-lactic fermentation and neither fining nor filtering of the wine: the family’s speciality rests on Champagnes of great freshness in the mouth, marked by authenticity and the taste of minerality in its terroirs on clay-limestone soils extending from Hautvillers premier cru to Cumières and as far as Villers. The Estate’s Champagnes are the fruit of sustainable viticulture, with no use made of pesticides, chemical fertilisers or pesticides. It is in the process of converting to organic status. Seaweed (Kelp) is imported from Norway to naturally fortify its vines. Sugar levels are low between 4 and 8 grams of sugar per litre of wine. Some vintage cuvées are matured in oak barrels. The liqueur of dosage is homemade, 100 % pure cane sugar and aged in 300 litre oak barrels.

Tasting Champagne Roger Constant Lemaire Trianon 1966

Tasted in London on 18th November 2020, the flagship of the Roger-Constant Lemaire estate first made in 1966 combines the subtlety of white grapes with the elegant intensity of red grapes.

60 % Pinot Noir 40% Chardonnay. Vine age average of 35 years. Fermented in stainless steel temperature-controlled tanks, aged on lees minimum 4 to 5 years

Bright luminous pale gold, sustained mousse of bubbles still alive on the second day of tasting, impactful but not aggressive. Splendidly fresh mineral nose showing yellow citrus scents, spring flowers and, with air, notes of orchard fruits, quince, apricots and a hint of wild honey, pineapple, fenne. Very stable and long finish. a genuine keeper till 2027 and beyond – exceptional ****.

Very good food Champagne with moules marinière, salmon trout, North Sea Dover sole, ragoût of fruits de mer, excellent,too as an aperitif. Disgorged in 2018. Dosage 6 to 8 g/l

Tasting

Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore 2008

2008 was a year of warm-to-hot temperatures and above average rainfall, the rains particularly heavy in the spring and early summer, requiring great attention to the care of the vines. Stable, sunny weather in August brought excellent ripeness in the 100% Chardonnay grapes. The wine’s appearance is arresting; a golden yellow hue traversed slowly by a super-fine delicate perlage (mousse) Aromas begin with apricot and pineapple, then a whiff of freshly baked apple crumble and cinnamon. Nuances of butter and mountain herbs emerge with extra aeration. In the mouth, there is real opulence of fruit tempered by elegant acidity. The finish is long and multi-faceted. Great with rich scallops or classically roasted turbot. **** 2020 -2030

Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore 2004

Tasted with Marcello Lunelli, wine director and Ruben Larentis enologist on a memorable occasion at Ferrari Casa in April 2018

2004 was a year that started with a mild clement winter, says Marcello, “allowing for an even germination stage of the grapes.” À summer of scarce rainfall and cooler below- average temperatures – uncannily akin to what they call in the Marne typical ‘Champenois’ weather. All this made vineyard management easier, resulting in a perfect, gently warm September harvest of healthy grapes. Tiny sparkling bubbles, brilliant to the eye. A broad, infinitely varied palette of aromas to delight the true connoisseur: Rennet apples, citron fresh and confit, lifted by floral tones of the Alpine highlands. Exquisite purity of Chardonnay flavours because of low dosage. On the mid palate, dried apricot and even peach emerge. Subtle taste of vanilla from discreet oak. Long multi-toned finish. A masterpiece, one of the great sparkling experiences of my life. ***** 2020 -2035

Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore, the story behind the legend

This great wine is actually a cru (as in Burgundy, Alsace and the Rheingau) – here a Blanc de Blancs produced solely from Chardonnay and the fruit of a single vineyard, Maso Pianizzo on the hills neighbouring Trento. It’s considered a natural masterpiece by experts on account of the area’s soil, composition and climate. The 12 hectares of vines face south west, benefiting from gentle afternoon sunshine, not the full heat of midday – a keen advantage, now mitigating the force of modern climate change.

‘Giulio Ferrari’ as a salute to the founder was created by Mauro Lunelli, head oenologist at the Trento Casa. As Camilla Lunelli, Mauro’s daughter explains, “ few people know how this bubbly masterpiece was created, although it is a story worth telling.” For as a result of his studies and the experience he gained in France, Mauro became convinced that a great traditional method sparkling wine can stand the test of time, no more or less successfully than a great red. So after a few years, in 1972, he bottled a few thousand bottles secretly without telling brothers Franco and Gino, who managed the business, for fear that they would disapprove. Eight years later, in 1980, he had some of the bottles tasted together with the brothers. Everyone was delighted and Mauro had to confess his secret. And those unsung bottles that had defied time were given Giulio’s name and put on the market.

Now forty years on, Giulio Ferrari has turned out to be the most highly praised of Italian sparkling wine, giving my favourite great vintage Champagnes from Maisons and growers the urge, as always, to rise to still greater heights.

Our series entitled ‘My Desert Island Fizz‘ starts with our good friend and most well respected sparkling wine author, Michael Edwards, who shares with us the three labels that he’d have accompany him on that lonely imaginary island:

Michael Edwards

Great Champagnes from latest available vintages

The idea of Desert Island wines must seem surreal in the Pandemic crisis right now – saving lives and surviving is the real priority for all of us in it together. But to keep morale up and bring the pleasures of the finest wines, here is my first selection from Aÿ the birthplace of sparkling Champagne.

Michael Edward’s Desert Island Champagnes from AY

Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet and La Glacière 2012

Since the arrival in 2003 of Michel Davesnes as cellar master, quality is surging, based on a new ultra-modern cuverie, where non oxidative wine making in stainless steel allows for ultimate fruit expression. Last year, 2019, saw the launch of two 2012 parcels of Aÿ single- vineyard Pinot Noir for what is said by certain authorities to be the best year for Pinot since 1952. Meurtet is delicate visually, especially the finesse of its tiny filigreed bubbles. There’s substance and structure behind the discretion, bolstering a top Champagne that nonetheless speaks gently. Yellow fruits,& Bigareau cherries beguile the nose; racy mineral tension frame texture and mouthfeel. A gastronomic wine for tuna steaks & lightly hung game. Despite its name, La Glaciėre is actually a warmer site – shimmering golden yellow hue, reflections of copper: ripe fruits aromas, warm and immediate, reflecting a superb harvest at perfect maturity. An opulent classic to come. Drink 2020 – 2035. www.gonzalesbyassuk.com.

Michael Edwards and Claude Giraud at 2017 Glass of Bubbly Awards

Henri Giraud Fût de Chêne multi vintage base 2013 plus a Solera of fine older vintages

Claude Giraud ‘s family had been winemakers in and around Aÿ since the 17th century – today he owns some of the finest vineyards, spread across 30 parcels in 14 lieux-dits (named sites). With such fabulous grapes, Claude is a committed exponent of oak from the local Champenois forest of the Argonne, where the wood’s impact is gentle and less smothering of the wine. Here the grape mix is 75% Grand Cru Pinot Noir 30% Chardonnay. As a multi-vintage, the base wine is 2013, the Solera has manifold portions of fine vintages that include 2004 and 2002 + 1998 one of my favourites. The result is terrific complexity The oak gives deep gold hue and rich tones of patisserie and spices. Also, citrussy lighter fresh scents of lime & lemon from the Chardonnay as well as peach and quince from the Pinot. Gastronomic wine Drink 2020 -2035 www.henri-giraud.com

Champagne Roger Brun La Pelle

Vignerons since before the French Revolution, the Bruns are a well-known family in Aÿ with a visceral love for the little town that was a cradle for the original sparkling Champagne, then made purely from Pinot Noir. The great great grandfather of Roger Brun, was a cooper and red-wine maker while working for Moët & Chandon during the phylloxera crisis of the early 1900s. Philippe Brun, Roger’s son, has been in charge of the business & winemaking at the house since I first met him 14 years ago, the start of a personal friendship still very warm today. A charismatic larger- than- life figure and former rugby player, he is one of the most generous producers I know, generous with inside information about what is going on in Champagne; he’s an invaluable source of the truth about the most recent harvest in Champagne, where his vat House presses the grapes for such giants as The LVMH titans. Behind his bluff muscular frame is a fine engineer’s mind, who worked in California before returning to the family Domaine.

Besides a full range of classic Champagnes, the pride of place must go to his slice of the superb early ripening site of La Pelle in the best hillsides south-facing slopes above the village cemetery. A usually powerful Blanc de Noirs, it was subtle and complete in the excellent slightly cooler 2013 Vintage. Deep burnished gold, profoundly scented, its aromatic fruitiness tinged with the voluptuousness of the terroir, wondrous vinosity. Should be reserved for the greatest dishes, rich seafood or any sort of meat. Not a dance-hall Champagne. Outstanding. www.champagne-roger-brun.com

Champagne Roger Brun La Pelle Extra Brut 2013

The 2019 Glass of Bubbly Awards were a rich celebration of top Prosecco DOCG. Here is a selection of a half-dozen personal favourites.

Bisol – Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze Dry 2018 DOCG – Gold Medal  – Meditation – For some years. I have been a great admirer of Bisol (now wholly owned by Ferrari Trento) The Cartizze is the most valuable vineyard in the district, a perfect hilltop site, giving richness and optimal ripeness. A luscious wine rightly for Meditation, better I think as a ‘Dry’ than as a tauter Brut. Traditionally Serve with desserts.

Tenuta Amadio Asolo DOCG Prosecco Superiore. Across the River Piave from Conegliano. The soil has deeper strains of clay. Energetic. structured wine for game. Rightly placed Gold Medal – Hint of Spice.

Villa Sandi Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG Brut Millesimato 2018. A golden fruit- driven wine, direct and delightful in its ample mouthfeel. Very adaptable as a classy aperitif after a hard day and then with dressed crab. Gold Medal – Summer Days

Bisol Relio Rive di Guia – Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut 2018. A fine example of the new category of specific hillside terroir (Rive). This one fits Silver Medal – Light and Fruity like a glove. A Fine Superiore at any time of the day or night.

Bisol Jeio Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Dry rather than bone- dry Brut. So, very suitable for those who like a little dosage to buffer the acids. Very good with Indian butter chicken or more traditionally sole meunière. Silver Medal – Zesty & Zingy.

Villa Sandi Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Rive di San Pietro Barbozza. This is an insider’s tip to one of the best buys in Prosecco DOCG The Rive San Pietro lies between Valdobbiadene and San Stefano, one of the finest cru and home to Cartizze. You get all the brilliant opulence of Cartizze at a much more reasonable price. Set rightly as Summer Days – Silver Medal, but really touching gold! Good with so many dishes.Duck breast, Summery Vitello Tonnato, Frito Misto di Mare. Apricot or Pear Flan.

Giusti Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG Extra Brut – burnished gold, the signalling depth of flavour and substance. A natural partner to hearty winter stews or daube of beef. But very fresh and cleansing check. Sea Breeze – Silver Medal.

The Year was 1968 and France was in turmoil, as the Nation almost fell into revolution. Order was finally restored when the naturally cautious French provinces played safe by re-electing de Gaulle and Pompidou. At the time, I had been reading for the English Bar at Gray’s Inn but my heart wasn’t in it; I found land law arid, much preferring history and literature, with previous fond memories of 1992-3 in Perugia studying Etruscan antiquities. It was as a 19 year old that I fell completely in love with wine, initially the great reds of Tuscany and Umbria, leavened with myriad local sparkling wines, the spumanti of central Italy – dry or sweet – which were often delicious to an open-minded taster.

Five years later, I took the plunge and left the Gray’s Law Library for the spittoon of a tasting room, first with a fine English shipper, Layton’s, who sent me to their principals in Champagne, both at Marne et Champagne and Moët &Chandon, where I learned how to riddle the up-ended bottle of Champagne in a pupitre (holed desk) in order to coax the deposit down towards the neck of the bottle before being disgorged. I also got painfully acquainted with tasting raw young still wines before they were made sparkling. In those days, long before Climate Change, the acids were so strong that you often had to retire to your bed for a few days to recover. In the early 1970s, I was based in Provence, working for a broker in Marseille; my job was to sell containers of fine French wines, mainly in Upstate New York but also westwards into Chicago and San Francisco. And what a portfolio of potential greats it was – Canard Champagne ( then still family owned), Domaine Laroche Chablis, Bichot Burgundy, Chave Hermitage, Zind= Humbrecht Alsace. Household names today. My wine writing career began in the early 1990s with The Champagne Companion (Prix Lanson 1994) and was consolidated by the success of The Finest Wines of Champagne ( Louis Roederer International Wine Book of The Year 2010). This last one is my favourite, as it is essentially close to a hundred profiles of my favourite Champagne producers, whose character shapes and explains their wines. These Maisons & Vignerons have become good friends over the years.

Michael Edwards Award at The World’s Finest Glass of Bubbly Awards

A Voyage of Discovery & Shared Pleasures

I am very grateful to Christopher Walkey for giving me this slot to choose my favourite Champagne/ sparkling wine each year – tasted blind which is then given a trophy for the Michael Edwards Award. It is of course not a solo effort but relies on the palates I most trust on the Tasting final panel, especially three women who are excellent tasters. Ann Samuelsen, Amanda Reboul and Nicole Wolbers from Norway, Australia and Germany respectively

Michael Edwards Award 2017 – Deutz Blanc de Blancs 2010. For many years Deutz has been highly respected for its classic style of great Chardonnay Champagne, its sources some of the best sites from long- contracted growers on the Côte des Blancs, particularly Avize Grand Cru, the heart of the blend. The 2010, austere at first has with age impressively matured under the thoughtful eye of cellarmaster Michel Davesne, ex Palmer – Pure, energetic, mineral and complete. No oak. Moderate dosage around 8/9 g/l

Michael Edwards Award 2018 – Roederer Estate Anderson Valley, Mendocino County Caw. (Quartet). This tasted the equivalent of fine Champagne, but with a beautiful controlled exotic fruits personality. The Anderson Valley close to the Pacific is among the coolest sites in Northern California chosen by maestro JB Lécaillon and made for some years by a Champenois. Bankable top quality and class.

Michael Edwards Award 2019 – Tenuta Mazzolino Cruacé Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Nero Rosé Brut – I thought this was an outstanding pink Champagne of remarkable finesse. So did Anne, Amanda and Nicole. We were surprised but quite delighted to learn that it was 100% Pinot Noir (Nero) from Italy’s Oltrepò Pavese not far towards the sea from Milan and famed for Pinot Noir. This is one of, if not the best Domaine in the district also for its still wines of Chardonnay and local grapes. Valentina, the adult daughter of the family told me her grandfather was French, with the implication that he knew something about Champagne! Lovely salmon pink, integrated caressing bubbles, seductive floral aromas, wild roses and peach, impeccable textured mouthfeel, the emphasis on the beguiling red fruits. Controlled 24 months+ on lees. A real discovery.

As a traditional pro, I have spent half a century poking around the cellars of Champagne, Burgundy and Alsace in search of great wines, fizzy & still. Inevitably, though, as a so-called ‘expert’ I have a few prejudices, likes and dislikes. And when I started as the honorary judge for the Glass of Bubbly Awards in 2017, it took me a while to adapt to the sound bites of modern idiom, which occasionally seemed remote from the pleasures of a convivial glass. Now, I am fairly converted to the vivid simple imagery that these categories, in the main, convey: Let’s face it, anything that demystifies the jargon of wine speak is a boon, a reassurance to consumers wanting to learn more and so gradually build an appreciation of fine wine, without snobbery and pretension; it’s also great for top sparkling producers hunting for new young, better informed markets on five continents.

Personal Trophy Favourites – an embarrassment of riches

The World’s Finest Glass of Bubbly 2019 –  Champagne Roger Brun Reserve Familiale 2004. Made by Roger himself and a wonderful present, as he touches his 78th birthday. Always a winemaker highly respected for the succulence and elegance of his Champagnes. You can read more about Champagne Roger Brun in my other article: Champagne Roger Brun

Gastronomic – Fox & Fox Midnight Dark Dry Rosé Brut 2011. A particularly exciting hedonistic wine, where the vintage was better in Sussex than in Champagne. Here is a wonderful and versatile wine that will pair with many firn foods. Their Inspiration Blanc de Blancs is just as fine, innovative, based on 99% Pinot Gris and 1% Chardonnay – a definite trailblazer.

Classic & Elegant – Champagne Frèrejean Frère Cuvée des Hussard 2012 1er Cru. A newish venture based in Avize, part financed by a member of the Taittinger family; classic precepts, real potential.

Sea Breeze – Lantieri Franciacorta Satén DOCG. Textbook Satén, 100% Chardonnay, emphasis on optimal freshness aided by soft pressing of the grapes Sea Breeze is the right phrase, one can sense the gentle salty breeze on nose and in the mouth. Class.

Summer Days –  Raimes Vintage Rose. An enchanting, smiling rosé from Augusta Raimes’ 10 acre vineyard near Winchester in East Hampshire, the choicest part of England that has the best composition of chalk akin to Champagne.

Oaky and Toasty – Ferrari Trento Perlé 2013. This is one of the most admired and loved vintage Metodo Classico sparkling wines of Italy – in Milan bars & restaurants, the discerning call simply for a Perlé, making it a magical brand in its own right. The category descriptor poses a bit of a problem, as all the bubble wines of Ferrari are essentially fermented in stainless steel to show the unadulterated purity of the exceptional elevated terroir (territory) of its mountain home. There may be a tiny soupçon of oak to add complexity but what some tasters see as oaky is in fact not that but the flavour of long lees ageing. Arresting bright straw-green, filigreed, exquisitely fine bubbles, a rush of the full range of the citrus and apple repertoire, hints of almond and a long vertical driving palate, some flattering toastiness, too. As ideal as an aperitif as with a dish of Spaetzle, egg noodles.

Fireworks – Vina Kobal Teranova Penina Tera. Extraordinary power and extrovert explosiveness, almost a whiff of gunpowder from this Slovenian red sparkling wine. A riot of bold assertive flavours for chilli laced Thai creations.

Endnote –

These third year Glass of Bubbly Awards 2019 have come of age, showing a true mix of classic refined wines with adventurous innovations. Not only an upward curve of quality but greatly strengthened judging panels of wine professionals and sommeliers as a healthy balance with committed wine enthusiasts. Italy really showed its paces, Ferrari Trento of the Lunelli family, proving its stellar worth as Italy’s finest in the ever regular Perlé, now a brand in its own right, and one of the best values in fine wine anywhere.

Here are a few tips towards understanding of the parameters. Grapes, Crus, Vintages, how dry? – the classic trio of Champagne

Grapes – First devised after the French Revolution (1789) has never been bettered and is now followed by most fine sparkling winemakers internationally. Pinot Noir is the King that thrives on limestone/clay soils with a touch of sandstone, powerful, poised but with enduring finesse. Chardonnay is the Queen that loves the purest incisive chalk of Champagne’s Côte des Blancs; also found in England’s East Hampshire close to Winchester. Meunier is the Black Prince, a doughty fighter against heatwaves e.g, in the climate- changed torrid 2018/2019.

Crus – Are the recognised, often very superior growths in near-perfect sites – Ay La Pelle, Mesnil Chétillons, Ferrari Trento’s Alto Margonne.

Vintage – Should be the exceptional wine of a single harvest released sparingly two or three times a decade; too often it is offered more frequently to satisfy demand in America for a vintage tag.

How dry is dry? –There is a fashionable demand for ultra bone-dry Champagne with no added sugar (dosage). Personally I think Brut Zéro, Pas Dosé, works better in the Italian Alps, where there is some subtle Mediterranean influence eg by the balmy Lake Garda. Brut Zéro in Champagne is more difficult. You can count the good ones, on one hand, the best for me are Manu Fourny (Veuve Fourny)’s Brut Nature Chardonnay made from old vines at high altitude. Also, Louis Roederer Philippe Starck 2012, made from the trip of cépages harvested on the same day.

Am I a fan of better sparkling wine, particularly paired with gastronomy? Yes, very much so. Gourmets in shirtsleeves have always relished drinking Prosecco Superiore DOCG with spider crabs from the Venice lagoon. Now with chemical-free, vigilant, eco-friendly treatments of the vine, ladies who lunch can enjoy headache-free sparkling wines, was aided by modest alcohol less than 12% Great with all fish or a slice of Parmesan but not please with red meat.

My favourite dining experience, both as a former chief inspector for Egon Ronay but also now more informally as a guest of the sparkling wine houses.

My favourite place, for lunch, is the Michelin three-star L’Arpège in Paris 7ème, close to the Rodin museum. Small and discreet, it specialises in vegetarian creations of the chef-patron, with superb produce from his kitchen garden potager in Le Mans. But if you’re a carnivore like me, you can order the finest Mont St Michel roast lamb you’ll ever eat. A favourite of the de Billy, Pol Roger family with wonderful vintages of Pol.

My favourite place for dinner is the Due Spade in a quiet street close to Trento’s Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral). It has an enchanting atmosphere of an old Osteria; you go downstairs to the intimate restaurant. The food is refined and full of Trentino gastronomic traditions merging Italian and Germanic influences like homemade Spaetzle that taste like a special type of textured egg noodles. Wunderbar. Fine Trentodoc cellar including the best of Cavit and a new friend Paolo Letrari!

On the urging of my friend, Anne Krebiehl MW, who has just published a scholarly solid book on German wine, my focus now widens to Trentodoc in the Alpine province of Trentino. Only 800 ha-, 8 % of Trentino’s vineyards, are designated Trentodoc, which became Italy’s first DOC traditional sparkling wine in 1993. Though this recognition is quite recent, the true father of Trento metodo classico was Guilio Ferrari, a century ago. From an old landed family, Squire Guilio had the vision and the means to study wine in Geisenheim, Champagne and Montpellier. He understood that the mountain climate above, and farther north up the Adige river from the Cathedral City of Trento was an ideal place for Chardonnay with the right conditions for making sparkling wine. From 1902 he began to make Spumante in small batches and quickly gained medals at the International Concours in Milan. By the 1950s, Guilio with no heirs had to secure his legacy and agreed to sell his business to a member of the Lunelli family who owned the best wine shop and delicatessen near Trento’s Duomo – a man who shared Guilio’s values. Three or four generations on, Guilio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore, the family’s top cuvée is in the opinion of Marco Sabellico Senior taster at Gambero, the greatest Italian sparkling wine. Last March, I spent a week in Trentodoc, getting to know some other leading producers. I was particularly impressed by Cavit, which is one of Italy’s best cooperatives. Considering the company’s size -it counts 4,500growers and 10 sub coops among members, its approach to winemaking is painstakingly artisanal at every level. As a worldwide first, it fully understands its vines across 10,000 ha. by mapping every Cavit vineyard, 60% of Trentino already mapped, to foster evermore sustainable high-precision grape growing. “The Trentodoc trademark in 2007 has given us a real boost,” says Director Enrico Zanoni “We now have 45 associates in the Consorzio including Ferrari.” No surprise that the Conzorcio sees the mountains as the DNA of Trentodoc.

Footnote – It is highly encouraging that such a prestigious house as Ferrari is as keen to communicate to wine lovers as much as to professionals who don’t always think always outside their rarified world. Glass of Bubbly was very honoured to be approached with a more recent vintage of Guilio Ferrari and the excellent Ferrari Perlé, one of Trento’s great values both of which won gold medals at The World’s Finest Glass of Bubbly Awards 2019. Also one of Valdobbiadene’s best Prosecco Superiore producers, Bisol now wholly owned by Ferrari, won several gold and silver medals at the recent 2019 Glass of Bubbly awards.

Vignerons since before the 1789 French Revolution, the Bruns have always been motivated by a deep love of Aÿ their little home town, more a large village, renowned as the cradle of the original 17th century Champagne made purely from Pinot Noir. Head of the family Roger Brun, now semi retired, is admired for his intense yet lightly touched expression of great Pinot, coming from the best Grands Crus on sunny south-facing slopes above the handsome Gothic Church of St. Brice. Philippe Brun, Roger’s son is at the helm since at least the cusp of the 21st century. A larger than life character and the most generous convivial of hosts, he has a hedonistic love of good food & drink. Dig a little deeper and you learn that Philippe has a broader view of the outside world than most vignerons. He worked as a luxury goods creator and engineer in California before returning to the family domaine of 11 hectares.

Philippe also presses the grapes at harvest in the grand valley of the Marne for some of the great Champagne houses. So, as an outspoken candid man, he is the best possible source for what the most recent harvest is really like. A good corrective to the PR spin machine. Champagne lovers who attended the Glass of Bubbly Awards in the last two years will know Philippe well for his French Beret and, more important, his repeated ability to run off with prizes like the Trophy in 2018 for his top cuvée the single vineyard pure Pinot Noir, La Pelle 2013 winner in the ‘Oaky & Toasty’ category not sure I agree with the category, but the wine itself is lovely and the Trophy for ‘Gastronomic’ in 2017 for his Cuvee Des Sires 2011.

Here is an update in Philippe’s own words of his current cuvées.

• “ I still produce my Brut Classic based of 50% Meunier 40% Chardonnay 10 % Pinot Noir but less than before. I still need it for clients buying my upper range Champagnes but wanting a cheap Champagne for weddings and parties.”

• “ My Grande Reserve is my biggest production. I call it the emergency use Champagne as it matches any thing with anyone. I also produces sweeter version (Sec 20 g g/l) for new markets.”

• “ I am now selling my last 2013 La Pelle. it was very good in Aÿ, Late picked into October. I produced a lower volume of La Pelle in 2018 because of a lack of acidity, but I produced lots of my pink, the Romance, 100 % Pinot Noir from Mareuil and Mutigny. I do the Saignée method, crushing the grapes and macerating them with the juice to achieve the right colour, 24 hours in 2013, 48 hours in 2015. A brilliant wine for Asian cuisine.”

Talking of great places to eat, without breaking the bank, last February Philippe took me to the enlarged Rotisserie Henri Quatre Aÿ’s Blvd Charles de Gaulle. It now seats up to several hundred, with a terrace and lawns under shaded trees for alfresco eating, fine grills and excellent steaks and beef, when you want a good follow-on from Champagne, something red from Burgundy or the Rhône. Very popular lunch with locals.

Philippe also has a fine Bed & Breakfast called Logis des Pressureurs in the centre of Aÿ right opposite the Church de St Bruce. Opening times be seen on his Logis Facebook entry. Not available during the harvest period in September. Reopens 18 October.